Nous sommes au lendemain de la Matterhorn Ultraks et à peine quatre jours après la tentative réussie du record de Kilian Jornet de l’ascension du Mont Cervin depuis Cervinia. Un sommet emblématique sur lequel Kilian Jornet aura brillé en ces deux occasions, mais qui, comme toute montagne, dicte ses lois.
Kilian Jornet a accordé une longue interview à Ian Corless, il l’a transmise en exclusivité pour un site Français (Trails Endurance Mag), traduite par Maud Jarnier.
Kilian arrive avec Emelie Forsberg, l’air frais et détendu après un petit déjeuner tardif. Je le félicite (ainsi qu’Emelie) de sa nouvelle victoire sur l’Ultraks Matterhorn Skyrunning et je lui demande comment il se sent : «Je suis un peu fatigué, mais ça va. J’étais fatigué en effet lors de la course mais je n’ai pas trop forcé, juste ce qu’il fallait pour gagner ».
Ian Corless (IC) : Nous sommes le lendemain de la Matterhorn Ultraks, alors Kilian, tout d’abord, félicitations pour ta victoire ! Une autre grande course menée avec Luis Alberto Hernando, mais le plus impressionnant est de l’avoir enchaînée quelques jours seulement après ton ascension du Cervin. Comment te sens-tu?
Kilian Jornet (KJ) : Je me sens bien. C’était une très bonne course dans une super ambiance. Courir avec Luis Alberto Hernando était génial. J’étais très fatigué avant la course, et particulièrement la veille. J’avais choisi comme stratégie de partir tranquillement pour attaquer dans les derniers kilomètres. Effectivement, je suis arrivé bien plus fatigué que sur mes autres courses de l’année.
IC : Lors de notre rencontre dans les Dolomites, tu m’avais dit que ton prochain sommet serait le Cervin. Tu es venu à Cervinia quelques semaines pour t’entraîner. Tu avais beaucoup de respect pour le record de 3:14:44 de Bruno Brunod. Le Cervin est une montagne dangereuse. Tu as dit que tu avais besoin d’apprendre à connaître cette montagne, d’en comprendre chaque partie. Tu as déclaré que le record était à ta portée … qu’est-ce que ça fait de viser un record si emblématique, une performance inégalée depuis 1995 ? Tu as déclaré que tu en avais rêvé, un rêve de d’enfant que tu voulais réaliser. Pour toi, plus qu’un record, c’est le projet d’une vie ?
KJ : Je m’en souviens bien, j’avais 13 ans. A l’époque, j’avais intégré un centre d’alpinisme ; je parlais à Jordi, le formateur, et je lui disais que le record était impossible à battre. J’ai lui ai parlé récemment et il m’a rappelé toutes ces années où je rêvais de Cervin et de ce record. Je pensais que c’était l’incarnation ultime de notre sport. C’est un sommet magnifique, avec une ligne logique. C’est un record difficile, qui demande un effort intense tant en course qu’en escalade ; et il faisait l’objet de méditations depuis plusieurs années … plus encore que le Mont Blanc et tous les autres records. Il y a environ cinq ans, quand j’ai commencé à réfléchir au projet Summits of my Life, le Cervin était le but ultime. Les autres sommets devaient servir de préparation au Cervin et au record de Bruno. Pour moi, c’était la performance la plus difficile.
J’avais vraiment peur, pas de la montagne en elle-même car je l’ai beaucoup arpentée, mais du temps. J’ai gravi le Cervin neuf fois avant l’ascension. La première fois, tu prends conscience de ce qui est possible. Tu montes, tu descends et tu réalises : wahou, c’est ça le temps à battre ! Au bout de la neuvième fois, je me suis dit que je connaissais cette montagne, que je n’allais pas faire de chute car je l’avais explorée sous toutes ses coutures. Je connaissais les parties où je pouvais pousser au maximum et là où je devais m’économiser. Malgré ça, j’étais nerveux le matin de la tentative. Je me demandais : est ce que je vais battre le record ou mettre quatre heures ?
IC : Quelques personnes se sont demandées pourquoi tu t’es élancé à 15 heures : le Cervin étant une montagne fréquentée, je suppose que l’idée était de trouver le moins de monde possible?
KJ : Oui, c’est cela. C’est une montagne fréquentée quand les conditions sont bonnes. Lors de mes neufs ascensions, je n’ai vu presque personne, seulement deux ou trois cordées. J’étais seul. La semaine de la tentative, les journées étaient belles avec des conditions chaudes et sèches et donc du monde sur la montagne. Plus d’une centaine de cordées! Aussi, j’ai consulté tous les guides et les équipes d’assistance. Nous nous sommes posés la question : qu’est ce qu’on fait ? Avec tout ce monde, cela semblait impossible. Ma première idée était de commencer entre 7 et 8 heures, mais doubler ainsi les gens ne semblait pas sérieux. Nous avons décidé de commencer plus tard. C’était la meilleure option. Il faisait chaud au sommet, je portais juste un T-shirt et il n’y avait personne sur le chemin. Tout le monde redescendait ou se dirigeait vers le refuge. Il y avait seulement la présence des guides, c’était parfait!
IC: Pour la préparation du record, tu as rencontré Bruno Brunod ? Est ce qu’il t’a accompagné sur le Cervin ou est ce que vous n’avez fait que parler de la tentative ?
KJ: Bruno m’a dit qu’il n’était jamais remonté au Cervin après sa tentative. Nous nous sommes rencontrés à Cervinia pour en discuter : des conditions qu’il a rencontrées, de sa préparation, sa gestion mentale… ensuite nous avons discuté de la corde, des raccourcis et des temps de parcours. C’est drôle, Bruno a cessé de courir en 2003, mais il a repris l’année dernière et il est actuellement en train de préparer le Tor des Géants. Il n’a jamais couru de longues distances, il disait qu’il avait peur. Je lui ai dit : allez tu es solide, tu est capable du meilleur sur ce type de course.
IC: Donc Bruno est passé du néant en matière de course, à préparer l’une des plus longues du calendrier. Je suppose que quand tu t’appelles Bruno Brunod tu ne fais pas les choses à moitié. Est ce que tu as plusieurs options pour atteindre le sommet ou est ce que tu définis un itinéraire que tu te mets en tête en le répétant, jusqu’à en connaître chaque pas ? Tu sais à quel endroit tu pourras user de toute ta puissance et à quel endroit il faudra faire attention à ne pas glisser ?
KJ : J’avais un itinéraire : l’arête du Lion qui est la voie classique et la plus rapide. C’est l’itinéraire historique, le même que Bruno a emprunté et tous ceux avant lui. Il faut s’entraîner de différentes manières mais c’est une arête effilée, il est possible de passer par plusieurs endroits mais il faut effectivement avoir planifié sa traversée. Il s’agit de savoir où poser les pieds, savoir lorsqu’il faut pousser ou pas. Je pense qu’il faut comprendre la montagne. Les faces ouest et nord présentent des parties très escarpées, avec une arête effilée où l’on peut trouver de la glace. Si tu pars le matin, tu auras de la glace. Si tu arrives après 10 heures, il n’y aura plus que de l’eau et il sera possible de passer. Il faut consacrer du temps à comprendre ces mécanismes et comment la montagne vit. La face nord est toujours gelée et je savais que je devais donc faire plus attention. Sur la face ouest, je pouvais mettre plus de puissance car la chaleur de la roche offrait une meilleure adhérence. C’est important de passer du temps pour comprendre parfaitement ces paramètres. Par exemple, s’il fait froid ou s’il y a du vent, mes chaussures n’agripperont pas de la même manière que s’il fait chaud. J’ai besoin de connaître ces informations pour savoir exactement où aller. Il est extrêmement important de comprendre la montagne et les conditions météorologiques.
IC : A première vue, les gens t’observent et pensent que tu es très détendu et sans pression. Je te connais, je t’ai vu travailler et étudier les montagnes. Tu t’intéresses à leur histoire, tu fais des recherches détaillées pour réaliser au mieux tes tentatives et ne pas laisser de place au hasard. C’est à l’évidence très important. Tu as évoqué par exemple le caoutchouc de tes semelles, est ce que tu portais des chaussures spécifiques ?
KJ : Oui j’ai essayé différents types de caoutchouc. J’ai toujours utilisé les Sense de Salomon, mais avec des semelles différentes et plusieurs qualités de caoutchouc. Pour la tentative, j’ai choisi une gomme tendre pour une meilleure adhérence.
IC : Il est intéressant de comparer ces tentatives : par exemple, lors du départ de celle de Bruno en 1995, j’imagine qu’il se tenait seul sur la place de Cervinia avec seulement quelques personnes autour en train de boire une bière. Cependant M. Giacometti et L. Van Houten ont contribué à la tentative de Bruno. Ils ont aidé au financement, ils ont organisé la sécurité et réservé un hélicoptère, et de la même façon ils se sont impliqués dans la tienne. Pour notre plus grand plaisir, Seb Montaz a également participé au processus. Pour ceux qui connaissent Seb, il est maître de son art comme tu l’es dans ta discipline. Il nous a offert quelques aperçus grandioses de ton ascension, de courtes vidéos sont déjà publiées sur YouTube. Ces vidéos permettent de transcrire ces aspects importants. Est-ce une manière d’immortaliser ton succès ou s’agit plutôt d’un moyen d’attirer les gens vers la montagne tout en leur transmettant une idée de sa beauté et ses dangers?
KJ : La deuxième proposition sans aucun doute, et non pas la réussite. Le jour où je m’arrêterai elle sera toujours dans mon esprit. Cela fait plutôt partie d’un processus d’apprentissage qui permet aux gens de nous rejoindre dans la montagne et qui permet à chacun de comprendre. C’est beau, c’est bien, mais c’est aussi très difficile. Toute une préparation est nécessaire, nous prenons des risques effectivement, mais les vidéos aident à comprendre notre motivation et à informer. Ma façon d’approcher la montagne est tout à fait accessible, mais s’apprend. Pour moi, mon sommet était le Cervin, j’ai pris conscience de mes capacités, mes possibilités et mes compétences techniques. J’ai accepté le risque. Pour d’autres, le sommet sera différent, juste à côté ou à mille lieux d’ici. Notre objectif est de montrer et faire découvrir que l’on peut se déplacer avec cette sensation de légèreté en montagne, en espérant que d’avantage de personnes le comprendront.
IC : Parlons de ton record. Tu es parti à 15 heures de Cervinia. La première partie est facile, puis arrivent les difficultés, les parties techniques qui offrent cordes, crêtes, faces à escalader et ainsi de suite… comment gères-tu la tentative mentalement ? Est ce que tu avais des objectifs précis, est-ce que tu avais prévu des temps intermédiaires à certains endroits ou as-tu fonctionné aux sensations ? J’ai entendu que sur le début du parcours tu avais seulement 3 minutes d’avance environ sur le record de Bruno, un peu juste. Mais une fois passé un certain point, l’écart est devenu beaucoup plus significatif. Evidemment tu es descendu particulièrement vite. Tu mets 02:52:02 au lieu de 03:14:44. Je crois que c’est ce que Bruno avait prédit. Etais-tu surpris?
KJ: J’ai vraiment été surpris. Lorsque Bruno m’a dit 02:52, je lui ai répondu: impossible. Je pensais pouvoir battre le record de 2-3 minutes maximum. 03h10 me paraissait être un bon temps. Lors de mes courses d’essai, je ne prenais jamais une allure rapide pour être à l’aise dans les parties difficiles. C’est un peu la loterie, tu penses à des chiffres mais le tirage n’aura lieu que le jour de la course ! La seule fois où je suis allé plus vite c’était lors de mon deuxième jour d’entraînement. Je me suis surpris à penser que peut-être que je pourrais faire un meilleur temps que Bruno. Si j’étais déjà proche de son temps, il m’était tout à fait possible d’aller plus vite. J’ai discuté avec Seb Montaz le matin de la tentative, il disait que si je pouvais atteindre le sommet en 2 heures ce serait génial, et que j’aurais du temps pour la descente. Je lui ai répondu que j’en serais très heureux aussi. Le départ de la tentative s’est fait l’après-midi, donc c’était l’idéal au sommet car il faisait chaud, cependant, il faisait aussi très chaud dans la vallée. Je n’aime pas la chaleur. J’ai commencé avec un bon rythme, mais les forces étaient difficiles à trouver. J’ai aperçu beaucoup de monde et des amis. Bruno, des amis du ski, des guides de Cervinia étaient là à m’encourager, ainsi que Nuria Picas et beaucoup d’autres … ils m’ont donné l’énergie. Je me suis dit, je dois continuer, je dois tout donner. Je gardais le temps de Bruno dans mon esprit, sans savoir ce que j’étais capable de faire.
J’étais dans les temps de Bruno jusqu’au Col du Lion, puis la crête a commencé et je me suis retrouvé face à moi-même. Ce sont ces moments que j’aime dans la course : lorsque le terrain devient technique, que tu dois escalader, te dépasser, être exposé. J’aime cette sensation d’être exposé sur la montagne. Il ne s’agit alors plus de se déplacer rapidement mais avec fluidité. C’est de cette manière que tu dois avancer sur ces pentes, car plus tu essaies d’aller vite, plus tu auras de chance d’avoir un accident. Les déplacements fluides me permettent de bouger rapidement. J’ai commencé à gagner du temps le long de la montée, et jusqu’au sommet. J’ai regardé ma montre et j’ai vu que j’avais quasiment 12 minutes d’avance sur le temps de Bruno. Je me suis dit : « c’est incroyable, c’est possible! Ok, je peux le faire. » J’étais heureux, mais je voulais rester concentré. La descente est longue jusqu’à Cervinia et je voulais assurer toutes les étapes. Le responsable des guides de Cervinia m’a dit au sommet : « vous pouvez le faire! » J’ai entamé la descente profondément concentré. J’ai adoré cette partie, j’adore courir sur ces portions techniques où ce ne sont plus les jambes qui vous poussent mais votre esprit. C’était du plaisir à l’état pur, je savais où poser mes pieds, mes mains, lorsqu’il fallait glisser, aller plus vite, s’arrêter. Après avoir terminé la partie la plus technique, j’ai réalisé que j’avais presque 20 minutes d’avance sur Bruno, et qu’il n’y avait plus qu’à pousser sur la dernière partie jusqu’à l’arrivée.
IC : Moi et beaucoup d’autres personnes étions très inquiets au sujet de ta tentative du Matterhorn. En considérant l’envergure de cette montagne, nous nous attendions à ce que tu te surpasses, ce qui implique forcément la notion de danger. Une fois rendu au sommet, avec de l’avance sur le temps de Bruno, cela signifiait une descente plus tranquille : est-ce que tu as pris moins de risques que si la marge avait été plus réduite ?
KJ : Oui bien sûr. Si j’avais été au sommet en 02h10, je ne serais pas descendu à la même vitesse. J’aurais pris plus de risques. Je pense aussi que cela ne marche pas! Beaucoup de personnes qui m’ont vu ont dit que je descendais très vite, d’une manière vraiment fluide, que je ne prenais pas de risques mais que j’étais très rapide. Je pense que c’est de cette façon que l’on doit descendre en montagne. Si tu prends des risques, la position du corps est différente et ne te permet pas de glisser ainsi. Tu pars vers l’arrière et tu perds de la vitesse. Si tu te sens en confiance, tu peux aller vite. Je pense que j’aurais peut-être pu gagner 6 ou 7 secondes en prenant des risques. Ce n’est pas grand chose! Ces 6 ou 7 secondes m’auraient peut-être coutées la vie … Je connaissais parfaitement le chemin et je n’avais pas besoin de prendre de risques supplémentaires. Je voulais juste être serein. Ma mère a gravi cette montagne, elle a gardé de mauvais souvenirs de sa première ascension du Cervin. Mais si tu y retournes encore et encore en connaissances de cause, tu le fais non pas pour prendre des risques mais pour prendre confiance.
IC : Quand tu es arrivé à Cervinia, c’était comme la fin d’une course. C’était incroyable. Les barrières étaient sorties. Un peu comme ton arrivée ici à Zermatt Est-ce que cela t’a surpris?
KJ: Oui, j’ai été complètement bluffé. J’ai dormi à Cervinia dans ma camionnette pendant les trois semaines précédant ma tentative. J’ai été surpris par l’accueil de chacun. Par exemple, le premier jour où je suis monté au Cervin j’étais avec Emelie. Tout le monde voulait nous aider. A chaque fois que je montais, j’étais encouragé. On me demandait tout le temps quel jour j’allais me lancer dans la tentative pour me proposer de l’assistance : « nous voulons être présent pour vous aider et vous encourager ». Même chose pour les hôtels de Cervinia qui m’offraient de prendre une douche ou d’autres services gratuitement, comme utiliser Internet et leur connexion Wi-Fi. C’était une ambiance incroyable. Les gens étaient heureux que je sois à Cervinia pour ce record, tous derrière à me soutenir. Je pense que c’était l’aspect le plus beau de cette aventure. Je suis simplement venu avec mon van, je suis monté seul, mais tout le monde est venu nous soutenir, l’équipe et moi-même. Les meilleures conditions étaient réunies pour qu’il me soit facile de battre le record. La veille, j’ai contacté les secours en montagne pour les prévenir: «Demain, j’y vais. Ils ont répondu : Ok, de combien de personnes avez-vous besoin? Nous allons placer des personnes dans la montagne au cas où vous commettriez une erreur ». Il a appelé les guides et ils ont répondu : d’accord, nous allons positionner des gens à tel et tel endroit. Les guides, une fois leur travail terminé le mercredi midi sont retournés dans la montagne pour me soutenir. Un soutien unique et un accueil fantastique.
IC : L’ampleur du soutien que tu as reçu est remarquable. Te connaissant, tu aurais aussi pu sortir de ton van, faire ton départ depuis la place et revenir incognito et tu aurais été tout aussi heureux. Marino Giacometti a toutefois soulevé un paramètre important : ces tentatives de record doivent être vérifiées, il faut des preuves que tu as bien atteint le sommet et que tu es redescendu au point de départ. Bien sûr, cela ne remet pas en doute ton honnêteté. Mais pour les records à venir, une organisation doit être mise en place. Cela ne peut être qu’une amélioration d’établir un processus de mesure. Pour tes futures tentatives, comme l’Elbrouz en Russie, envisages-tu vas de mettre en place un tel système.
KJ : Oui, je sais qu’il me faut quelqu’un pour chronométrer et je suis conscient qu’une personne doit nécessairement être présente au sommet. Pour le Mont Blanc, des personnes de l’Office du Tourisme étaient là pour confirmer ma tentative et il y avait des guides au sommet. J’ai aussi les fichiers GPS de ma Suunto. Au Matterhorn, il n’y a pas eu de problème, il y avait de nombreuses personnes en place et je n’ai presque rien eu à faire. Par exemple, Marino Giacometti était au chronomètre à Cervinia, et les guides et autres équipes dédiées à soutenir la tentative ont tous pu suivre mon itinéraire. Mon chrono était transmis par radio à tous les guides de la montagne et mes progrès pouvaient être surveillés. L’honnêteté est importante. Tout comme lors du contrôle du dopage … c’est une question d’intégrité, mes intentions sont 100% sincères, le record n’aurait sinon aucun sens. Je sais que beaucoup de records non pas été établis avec des contrôles, je crois volontiers leurs auteurs, mais si l’on considère le monde actuel et tous ces problèmes, j’ai bien conscience des dérives qui amènent les gens à tricher.
IC : Cette tentative a été d’autant plus formidable qu’avec toutes ces personnes présentes, nous avions connaissance de tes temps presque instantanément ce qui permettait de les diffuser au monde entier via Tweeter et Facebook. C’était tellement excitant. Ta progression a été largement relayée sur tous les réseaux sociaux. Je pense que plus d’un se sont arrêtés de travailler pour te suivre. Mais je pense que l’idée de suivre quelqu’un monter et descendre une montagne et diffuser ce message à travers le monde peut en laisser plus d’un perplexe : certains peuvent se demander en quoi cela est intéressant ? Mais de notre point de vue il y avait quelque chose de tellement excitant, les gens étaient scotchés à suivre ta progression. Est-ce que tu y pensais ou étais-tu loin de ces considérations, dans ta montagne?
KJ : Lorsque je suis en montagne, je suis concentré à 100%. J’ai besoin d’être présent et vigilant, penser où je pose mes pieds, à ma vitesse. Si mon esprit se met à vagabonder, je peux perdre du temps ou peut-être même ma vie, c’est pourquoi j’étais particulièrement concentré sur mes déplacements et avancer aussi vite que possible. J’étais en tête-à-tête avec et la montagne. Je n’avais en tête ni les réseaux sociaux ni les photos, d’autres s’en occupait. Par exemple, Seb était dans l’hélicoptère, mais je ne l’ai jamais vu ou entendu, même lorsqu’il était tout proche. Je devais être présent à 100%. Je pense que c’était parfait comme ça. Pendant les courses, depuis trois ans, je gère mes efforts et je n’ai pas besoin de me concentrer autant, mais dans ce cas c’était complètement différent. C’était comme la première fois que j’ai couru il y a dix ans, j’étais extrêmement concentré. C’est un sentiment incroyable.
IC : Merci beaucoup pour cet échange.
Interview et photos : ©iancorless.com – traduction Maud Jarnier
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