Le 17 juillet prochain, la montée du Nid d’Aigle revient. Pour sa 34ème édition. Sans avoir pris une ride – il faut croire que la pratique de la course en montagne conserve. Fidèle à ses valeurs d’antan, tourné vers les enjeux d’avenir, cet évènement créé en 1987 par Michel Laurent ondulait à flanc de Mont-Blanc avant même que le mot Trail n’existe. Si bien qu’il est devenu, au gré des éditions – épiques pour la plupart – un rendez-vous emblématique de la vallée de Saint-Gervais. Pouvait-il en être autrement pour cette course qui coupe le souffle, à tous les sens du terme ? De par l’effort physique qu’elle impose pour parcourir les 19,5 km et 2000 m de dénivelé positif qui séparent la gare de départ du Tramway du Mont-Blanc à sa gare d’arrivée, au refuge du Nid d’Aigle (2372 m) ; de par le cadre exceptionnel qu’elle propose, sillonnant un écrin alpin absolument remarquable ; et de par la découverte culturelle qu’elle initie, son parcours offrant une remontée, baskets aux pieds, de la frise chronologique retraçant la riche Histoire de cette vallée.
« Une course qui coupe le souffle, à tous les sens du terme ! »
Le sport, la nature et la culture. Du 3 en 1, en somme. Immersion dans l’une des courses les plus complètes et les plus authentiques de l’Hexagone.
« Coupe du Monde un peu, course de village beaucoup »
La montée du Nid d’Aigle, qui revêtira un apparat international le 17 juillet prochain, puisqu’elle sera support d’une manche de Coupe du Monde de course en montagne, avec la promesse de voir débarquer au pied du Mont-Blanc ce que la discipline compte de plus talentueux à l’échelle du planisphère, est avant tout une « course de village ». Mais au sens positif du terme. Au sens où les générations peuvent passer, la tendance trail exploser et le sport se commercialiser, ici, les valeurs et le parcours demeurent immuables et se transmettent, comme un flambeau.
C’est dans cet attachement aux racines originelles que réside la singularité de la montée du Nid d’Aigle. Emma Legrand, directrice du service culture et patrimoine de Saint-Gervais, explique : « La course est ancrée dans le patrimoine culturel de la commune. Son parcours peut se lire, symboliquement, comme une frise chronologique de la vallée. » Remontons donc cette épreuve à étages où, à chaque altitude, s’ouvre un chapitre retraçant l’Histoire de la vallée.
Km 0 : La Gare du Fayet – Départ du Tramway du Mont-Blanc (580 m) / 0 D+
Le Tramway du Mont-Blanc voit le jour au début du XXème siècle, porté par la volonté des curistes venus aux thermes en calèches puis en train d’accéder au centre du bourg, plus haut dans la vallée. Les alpinistes y voient également un moyen de gravir le Mont-Blanc à l’issue d’un effort moindre. Ainsi, le projet initial, folie utopique, a pour mission de rallier le Fayet à l’Aiguille du Goûter. La première voie est posée en 1905, mais la ligne s’arrêtera au Refuge du Nid d’Aigle en 1912, faute de financement, les deniers publics étant mobilisés pour l’effort de guerre. Malgré tout, ce train à crémaillère qui se veut aujourd’hui la plus haute ligne de chemin de fer de France, circulant en dévers du Toit de l’Europe à 12 km/h – soit la vitesse des coureurs vainqueurs, est une attraction immanquable à ciel ouvert.
Km 1 : Les Thermes de Saint-Gervais-les-Bains (580 m)
« Le thermalisme est la première activité qui va offrir à la bourgade sa notoriété et la positionner sur la carte de l’Europe » s’enthousiasme Emma Legrand. En effet, dans les prémisses du XIXème siècle, alors que l’hygiénisme a le vent en poupe, les sources de Saint-Gervais, qui découlent directement du massif du Mont-Blanc, sont plébiscitées par les médecins pour leurs vertus contre diverses pathologies : dartres, eczémas et ulcères. Les curistes se pressent alors des quatre coins du Royaume de Piémont-Sardaigne auquel appartient la commune pour s’immerger des bénéfices de cette eau.
Km 3 : Les télécabines du Bettex (840 m)
Érigées en 1936, ces télécabines permettant de rejoindre le Bettex, hameau situé à 1450 m d’altitude, illustrent le développement de la commune comme station de sports d’hiver, au milieu du XXème siècle. Jusqu’alors, le ski se cantonnait sur l’autre versant, côté Prarion, avec un accès par le TMB pour redescendre aux Houches. Les télécabines du Bettex marquent un tournant dans l’Histoire de Saint-Gervais : le village connait une forte expansion, porté par l’engouement de toute une époque pour le ski.
Km 4 : L’église Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais (860 m)
Construite à la fin du XVIIème siècle, l’édifice est emblématique de ce style baroque qui se déploie sur toutes les églises du Val-Montjoie et des Alpes en général. En effet, le clergé, courroucé par la Réforme protestante et inquiet de perdre des fidèles, entreprend la restauration de ses lieux de culte pour accroître leur attractivité, initiant le mouvement de l’art baroque alpin. « Ces églises se caractérisent par un extérieur assez austère d’aspect, mais qui contraste grandement avec le faste de l’intérieur, censé donner un avant-goût du luxuriant paradis auquel accèderont les fidèles exemplaires. » décrit Emma Legrand.
Km 10 : Le Champel (1225 m)
« Le Champel, c’est notre village suspendu ! » s’enorgueillit la responsable culturelle de la commune. « À deux égards. D’abord parce qu’il parait véritablement installé en apesanteur dans une toile de nature, notamment lorsqu’on l’observe depuis Saint-Nicolas de Véroce ; mais aussi suspendu dans le temps, car il s’agit d’un écrin de quiétude et de sérénité hermétique à cette touche de frénésie que l’on retrouve plus bas dans la vallée… ».
Km 12 : Bionnassay (1320 m)
Un hameau qui occupe une place à part dans l’Histoire de la vallée. En effet, presque aussi peuplé que le centre-bourg situé 500 m en aval, ce petit village incarne le point d’ancrage de la philosophie des Lumières qui va ensuite irradier le Val-Montjoie. Pourquoi ? Car « les enseignants de son école sont formés à la Libre Pensée, dans cet esprit éclairé d’universalisation de la connaissance. » Une cité en avance sur son temps par la pensée mais aussi par les actes puisqu’elle fût le point de départ des premières expéditions à destination du Mont-Blanc, dont celle d’Horace Bénédicte de Saussure, physicien genevois considéré comme père fondateur de l’alpinisme, qui y avait installé son camp de base.
Km 15 : Plan de l’Are (1650 m)
Un bijou de verdure horizontale coincé entre deux parties verticales de la course qui reflète la tradition d’élevage dans la vallée. « À l’origine, le massif du Mont-Blanc, était une terre purement agricole où les éleveurs vivaient de la vente de leurs bêtes : d’abord les chèvres, puis les vaches. » Le Plan de l’Are se révèle alors à vos yeux comme un idéal d’alpage où se dirigeaient les troupeaux, au printemps, juste après la fonte des neiges, afin de paître de l’herbe fraiche, s’épanouir en altitude et ainsi produire ce lait de qualité qui fait la renommée de nos fromages.
Km 18 : Les échelles (2100 m)
Plus que de véritables échelles, ces minces escaliers en fer fixés à flanc de rochers se font le témoin de l’héritage alpiniste qui sommeille en ces terres. Saint-Gervais est un bastion avant-gardiste de cette quête des sommets qui affleure à la fin du XVIIIème siècle. Conquête impulsée par l’esprit des Lumières, déterminé à approfondir la connaissance et faire grandir le savoir de l’Homme, y compris par-delà les cimes. Les alpinistes, qu’ils se déplacent dans une démarche scientifique ou touristique, sollicitent alors les chasseurs de chamois et les cristalliers, les seuls à oser s’aventurer sur ces itinéraires engagés, pour leur servir de premiers guides, avant que la Compagnie des Guides de Saint-Gervais ne voit le jour, en 1864.
Km 20 – Arrivée : Le Refuge du Nid d’Aigle (2372 m)
La ligne d’arrivée de cette course emblématique, le point de départ de la « Voie Royale », itinéraire mythique qui mène jusqu’au sommet du Mont-Blanc par le célébrissime Refuge du Goûter. Perché à 2372 m, ce repaire – qui doit son nom à son aspect de promontoire lové en altitude – voit se croiser les trajectoires d’alpinistes venus du monde entier depuis 1936. Date à laquelle il fût conçu par Georges Orset, guide de la Compagnie de Saint-Gervais, dans l’optique d’accueillir les ascensionnistes déversés tous les jours par le TMB, quelques mètres en contrebas. Ravagé par un incendie en 2006, c’est l’architecte Gaston Muller qui lui rendra tout son lustre. Emma Legrand conclut : « On constate, de par son architecture atypique, que le Refuge du Nid d’Aigle a été façonné pour s’adapter à la pente et se fondre à merveille dans le paysage. Il porte parfaitement son nom : c’est un véritable cocon boisé, dessiné en arc de cercle, pour offrir une vue panoramique sur le massif du Mont-Blanc et les sommets qui l’entourent. »
L’UN DES TÉMOINS DE CETTE BELLE HISTOIRE
Les histoires – surtout les bonnes – ne sont rien sans personnages principaux. Il en va de même pour la Montée du Nid d’Aigle : il est impossible d’écrire un récit de 34 éditions sans visage fort. C’est la raison pour laquelle il nous semble primordial de conclure ce sujet par la mise en lumière de deux protagonistes qui œuvrent dans l’ombre, bien souvent la nuit, pour permettre à cet évènement de voir le jour.
Alain MUGNIER. Employé municipal à la mairie de Saint-Gervais 43 ans durant. 32 éditions du Nid d’Aigle au compteur, dont 15 en tant que bénévole, après la retraite : « Dans le cadre de mon métier, j’ai d’abord œuvré sur l’organisation technique, puis à la retraite, je me suis retrouvé comme bénévole préposé au chronométrage, sur la ligne d’arrivée. Un endroit privilégié pour capturer ces expressions mêlant souffrance et soulagement, douleur et bonheur, sur les visages des participants, à l’heure où ils en finissent (…) Après, nous aussi, en amont, on transpire ! Ce n’est pas de tout repos que d’organiser cette épreuve… Il fallait nous voir sur la troisième édition : les orages étaient tels que nous n’avions pu accéder à la gare au sommet. Nous avions dû transporter tout le matériel, à la force des bras, jusqu’au refuge ! »
Par Baptiste Chassagne – © organisation – OT Saint-Gervais – Miles Peacock, Bernard Tartinville, Pascal Deloche, Boris Molinier, Johan Pognant
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